Just over a decade ago, a notoriously-boozy City PR man was called into his boss’s office. The liquid lunches had become too obvious — there had been complaints about him staggering back to his desk five hours after he was last at it. The interns didn’t like all the shouting. His expense account, with its extra zero compared with his colleagues’, was starting to rankle.
Things had to change, his boss ruled sympathetically — for this was a man who was, before lunchtime anyway, at the top of his game.
He could squash a bad news story in a phone call. Clients liked him, FTSE 100 firms signed because of him. So why lose him over something so trivial as drink? His punishment was the imposition of a new rule: if you have not finished lunch by 3pm, don’t come back to the office.
It might not have happened anywhere else but the City, and HR didn’t want to know about it, but the deal suited both parties.
That was back in the day — when the most high-rolling merger or acquisition was done via a magnum-fuelled handshake in a dark bar on a sunny afternoon; when a trader-client meet-up wasn’t complete until they staggered out of a strip joint in the early hours; when, as one in red braces reminisces: “I was taken out for lunch to celebrate my engagement by a well-known City bon viveur, and we consumed five bottles of chablis between us.”
He staggered back to his flat in Ladbroke Grove “and fell into a cold bath to sober up before meeting my in-laws for dinner. I fell asleep and was woken by the phone hours later, virtually suffering from hypothermia”. What did the boss say about his absence from his desk that afternoon and the next day? “No one noticed.”
Boozy banker: The Wolf of Wall Street starring Leonardo DiCaprio. (Mary Cybulski)
No longer. The financial crisis of 2008 saw strait-laced Americans with their humourless, all-conquering, human resources departments sweep in. So long Wolf of Wall Street style excess.“The strip club visits and departmental coke sessions might not have been as frequent as everyone thought in the City, but they certainly ended with the financial crisis,” muses one ex-trader. And most City investment banks have been dry ever since. Or so they’ll claim.
This week, insurance behemoth Lloyd’s of London made it official, ordering its employees not to drink alcohol during the day, with a nine-to-five booze ban which could see supping staff sacked for gross misconduct. Analysis of employee disciplinary cases over the past two years found “roughly half” were related to alcohol misuse, apparently.
It’s the latest act of the now mighty HR and compliance departments, those once laughed-at dusty parts of the office which now practically run the Square Mile’s biggest institutions. “They’ve basically stopped anything fun,” says the ex-trader, who admittedly has a vendetta after having the “ex” added to his job title “without much of a pay-off” by one such department.
Still, don’t expect the pubs and bars in Leadenhall Market at the foot of the Lloyd’s building to empty quite yet. The City is laughing that the ban covers Lloyd’s employees — about 800 of them — but not the underwriters and brokers who make the insurance market — and tot up its lengthiest bar bills.
As Roger Foord, a Lloyd’s of London veteran and technology consultant, puts it: “There would be uproar if the ban was extended to the brokers and underwriters — because the bars and restaurants are part of the ethos of the market. We’ve often joked that one day they’ll introduce breathalysers at the door when people come back from their 3pm lunches.”
(Shutterstock / Creative Lab)
How will it be policed? Lloyd’s won’t say. But undoubtedly even its rule will be broken for people who are good at making money. If a broker lands a £50 million insurance contract but admits it was secured over a boozy lunch, the firm won’t be ripping up the deal.
The nine-to-five part of the ban “is also notable” says another insurance market-maker, trying to reassure himself of future expenses booze bills being passed, “given that most of our boozing starts at 5.01”.
But it’s still a big move from Lloyd’s, since the 300-year-old insurance market has remained resolutely old-style City while the suits commuting to its skyscraper neighbours — investment banks and bean-counters, mainly — have largely swallowed their employers’ dull corporate reinventions.
(Shutterstock / Monkey Business Images)
At Lloyd’s, “deals are still being done over a few bottles of very nice red as a matter of course, and putting in set hours of face-time in the office doesn’t usually matter as long as you’re writing enough business,” says one. “You’d be signing a contract that involved working out the odds on a big plane crash over vodka shots. It became normal to us — and while everyone thought insurance was boring, we knew it really, really wasn’t.” So not boring, in fact, that one (now former) Lloyd’s insurance worker, Victoria Neville, used her high-profile office as the backdrop for her novel, Thursday Night, Monday Mornings, about Tony “Ton Up” Greenwood (the “ton” referring to the number of women in the office that he’s snared), who followed afternoon working booze sessions with sex in the lifts.
Amazon’s reviews seem largely to be written by Neville’s former colleagues — and they complain about her language but not the setting or its veracity. In fact, one Lloyd’s marine insurance broker writes: “If you work in the Lloyd’s market you will recognise the antics and events — unless you’ve religiously gone home at five every evening and never gone out in Leadenhall Market on a Thursday night and next been fully conscious on Monday morning.”
But there is no doubt things have changed: the City’s receding boozing culture is real. A decade ago a teetotal first-year investment banker I knew (on £60,000 basic) moaned to me: “I’m not sure I can do this. Working till four in the morning and being back at my desk by eight ... the hours, I can cope with; the misogyny… I can deal with that, I was at Cambridge. But sipping another lime and soda and hoping they all think it’s a G&T isn’t working any more. I think I’m going to get kicked out — I’ve already been taken aside by a superior for ‘not embracing the way things are done around here’.”
No longer, she confirms. “Drinking just isn’t a regular thing any more. Sure, there’s the occasional epic six-figure bar bill celebration, and if you’re invited to Wimbledon or the rugby it’s not going to be a quiet one. But on a normal Tuesday lunchtime even the wide-boy traders are guzzling green juice or at the gym together ahead of their weekend triathlon. The work-hard, play-hard thing has become a lot more serious.”
One reason for that is because Giles on the derivatives desk no longer has his bonus handed over on a gilded plate — he has to do some work for it. And he really, really needs it, what with the rising Eton fees and the ridiculous service charge on his gated-community Cotswold weekend pad, while that Yank at the next desk along, Riley with his MBA from Columbia, is — worryingly — starting to be talked about more than he is.
Best pubs, bars and party spots on the Night Tube
36 show all Best pubs, bars and party spots on the Night Tube
1/36 The Drapers Arms 44 Barnsbury Street, N1, thedrapersarms.com Named after the cloth-cutters who once inhabited the area, The Drapers Arms is probably the best pub in London right now. This is mainly thanks to Nick Gibson, the wonderful manager/owner, and a stellar wine list, amazing pies, and Sunday roasts that are better than your mum’s. There are also frequent events to support Action Against Hunger — such as the recent Too Many Chefs, where 10 of the capital’s most brilliant cooks, including Neil Rankin and Will Bowlby, cooked an unforgettable 10-course meal — and dangerously good bin-end event Drink the List, where you have access to every bottle in the place. Hic. Victoria Line – North: Highbury and Islington
Named after the cloth-cutters who once inhabited the area, The Drapers Arms is probably the best pub in London right now. This is mainly thanks to Nick Gibson, the wonderful manager/owner, and a stellar wine list, amazing pies, and Sunday roasts that are better than your mum’s. There are also frequent events to support Action Against Hunger — such as the recent Too Many Chefs, where 10 of the capital’s most brilliant cooks, including Neil Rankin and Will Bowlby, cooked an unforgettable 10-course meal — and dangerously good bin-end event Drink the List, where you have access to every bottle in the place. Hic. 2/36 Black Axe Mangal 156 Canonbury Road, N1, blackaxemangal.com Barely a minute’s walk from Highbury & Islington lies former St John chef Lee Tiernan’s tiny, graffitied “haute kebab” restaurant. Granted, you won’t be able to hear anything for a week after an evening of hardcore heavy metal — but it’s worth it for the mind-blowing grub on offer. Or rather, on offal: think foie gras or smoked cod’s roe, Mission Chinese-spiced mutton and a lamb offal flatbread that’s like a smoky flavour-packed punch in the mouth. It doesn’t take reservations but Tiernan’s kebabs are worth queuing in rain, hailstones or a hurricane for. Victoria Line – North: Highbury and Islington Adrian Lourie
Barely a minute’s walk from Highbury & Islington lies former St John chef Lee Tiernan’s tiny, graffitied “haute kebab” restaurant. Granted, you won’t be able to hear anything for a week after an evening of hardcore heavy metal — but it’s worth it for the mind-blowing grub on offer. Or rather, on offal: think foie gras or smoked cod’s roe, Mission Chinese-spiced mutton and a lamb offal flatbread that’s like a smoky flavour-packed punch in the mouth. It doesn’t take reservations but Tiernan’s kebabs are worth queuing in rain, hailstones or a hurricane for. 3/36 Almeida Theatre Almeida Street, N1, almeida.co.uk In the past 35 years, the Almeida has become one of London’s most well-known theatres outside of the West End, thanks to its penchant for new talent alongside marvellous reinterpretations of the classics. Recent productions have included Ben Whishaw in Bakkhai and Ralph Fiennes in Richard III. The next big thing is Anne-Marie Duff in eco drama Oil, before Andrew Scott takes to the stage as Hamlet alongside Juliet Stevenson. Priority tickets for that go on sale on August 30. Victoria Line – North: Highbury and Islington Wikimedia Commons
In the past 35 years, the Almeida has become one of London’s most well-known theatres outside of the West End, thanks to its penchant for new talent alongside marvellous reinterpretations of the classics. Recent productions have included Ben Whishaw in Bakkhai and Ralph Fiennes in Richard III. The next big thing is Anne-Marie Duff in eco drama Oil, before Andrew Scott takes to the stage as Hamlet alongside Juliet Stevenson. Priority tickets for that go on sale on August 30. 4/36 Rowans 10 Stroud Green Road, N4, rowans.co.uk Anyone who grew up in north London will have spent multiple birthday parties screaming and slurping slushies while haphazardly flinging bowling balls in this retro tenpin alley. Now it’s time to return as an adult, to, well, scream and slurp slushies while haphazardly flinging bowling balls. Except this time you can drink alcohol and keep tossing balls until 2am to the lively tunes of one of the venue’s DJs. Victoria Line – North: Finsbury Park
Anyone who grew up in north London will have spent multiple birthday parties screaming and slurping slushies while haphazardly flinging bowling balls in this retro tenpin alley. Now it’s time to return as an adult, to, well, scream and slurp slushies while haphazardly flinging bowling balls. Except this time you can drink alcohol and keep tossing balls until 2am to the lively tunes of one of the venue’s DJs. 5/36 Yard Sale Pizza 54 Blackstock Road, N4, yardsalepizza.com Pizza aficionados will already be well versed in the joys of a Yard Sale pizza — dough master Nick Buckland and his team’s original site in Hackney was a pilgrimage site for melted mozzarella lovers. Now they’ve brought their massive 18-inch sourdough pizzas to the Victoria line. Sausage fans should head straight for the Holy Pepperoni: Cobble Lane pepperoni, Napoli picante and crumbled nduja sausage. Wash it down with a Five Points Ale or four. Victoria Line – North: Finsbury Park
Pizza aficionados will already be well versed in the joys of a Yard Sale pizza — dough master Nick Buckland and his team’s original site in Hackney was a pilgrimage site for melted mozzarella lovers. Now they’ve brought their massive 18-inch sourdough pizzas to the Victoria line. Sausage fans should head straight for the Holy Pepperoni: Cobble Lane pepperoni, Napoli picante and crumbled nduja sausage. Wash it down with a Five Points Ale or four. 6/36 Park Theatre Clifton Terrace, N4, parktheatre.co.uk This gem of a theatre which only opened in 2013 is a prime spot for seeing a future Ian McKellen, or the work of the next Trevor Nunn, for a fraction of the price. Book tickets now for The Burnt Part Boys, a musical about the miners. Or just come for the café, which has great cakes and is dog-friendly to boot. Victoria Line – North: Finsbury Park
This gem of a theatre which only opened in 2013 is a prime spot for seeing a future Ian McKellen, or the work of the next Trevor Nunn, for a fraction of the price. Book tickets now for The Burnt Part Boys, a musical about the miners. Or just come for the café, which has great cakes and is dog-friendly to boot. 7/36 Eat 17 28 Orford Road, E17, eat17.co.uk What started as a community-minded grocery has expanded into a pilgrimage spot for food lovers, partly thanks to the superlative bacon jam made there. Yep, bacon jam: a sticky, sweet, smoky, piggy spread that makes pretty much any sandwich in the world into a Michelin-starred experience. There’s also a cracking on-site restaurant that bakes its own bread, uses impeccably sourced ingredients, and serves such spectacular snacks as chorizo jam and mascarpone crostini, and jalapeno poppers. Victoria Line – North: Walthamstow
What started as a community-minded grocery has expanded into a pilgrimage spot for food lovers, partly thanks to the superlative bacon jam made there. Yep, bacon jam: a sticky, sweet, smoky, piggy spread that makes pretty much any sandwich in the world into a Michelin-starred experience. There’s also a cracking on-site restaurant that bakes its own bread, uses impeccably sourced ingredients, and serves such spectacular snacks as chorizo jam and mascarpone crostini, and jalapeno poppers. 8/36 Wildcard Brewery Ravenswood Industrial Estate, E17, wildcardbrewery.co.uk Granted, the bleak patch of wasteland that is the Ravenswood Industrial Estate doesn’t look like the kind of place you want to hang around after dark. But you will if you’re into really good craft beer and late-night DJ sets from people you’ve actually heard of (Tame Impala’s Jay Watson recently played). Start with a Brew Your Own session (bacon sarnies included) then neck a pint or three of Wild Card’s marvellous caramelly Ace of Spades porter on the rickety outside picnic tables before the music starts. By the time you leave, you’ll wish you lived on an east London industrial estate. Victoria Line – North: Walthamstow Ben Rowe
Granted, the bleak patch of wasteland that is the Ravenswood Industrial Estate doesn’t look like the kind of place you want to hang around after dark. But you will if you’re into really good craft beer and late-night DJ sets from people you’ve actually heard of (Tame Impala’s Jay Watson recently played). Start with a Brew Your Own session (bacon sarnies included) then neck a pint or three of Wild Card’s marvellous caramelly Ace of Spades porter on the rickety outside picnic tables before the music starts. By the time you leave, you’ll wish you lived on an east London industrial estate. 9/36 The Bell 617 Forest Road, E17, belle17.com A classic real ale pub that’s made for parents, the Bell also happened to win Camra’s east London pub of 2015. That’s got to have something to do with its glorious Sunday roasts, complete with a nut roast that’s not only edible but so tasty, it might be worth skipping the roast chicken for. It can also lay claims to having Walthamstow’s best pub quiz. Victoria Line – North: Walthamstow Google Maps
A classic real ale pub that’s made for parents, the Bell also happened to win Camra’s east London pub of 2015. That’s got to have something to do with its glorious Sunday roasts, complete with a nut roast that’s not only edible but so tasty, it might be worth skipping the roast chicken for. It can also lay claims to having Walthamstow’s best pub quiz. 10/36 Brunswick House 30 Wandsworth Road, SW8, brunswickhouse.co This stunning wreck of a Georgian mansion, originally built for the Duke of Brunswick in 1758, was rescued by salvager Lassco. Now it’s home to one of south London’s best modern British restaurants. It’s run by Jackson Boxer and Andrew Clarke, who turn out phenomenal daily changing dishes such as roast Swaledale veal and chocolate cumin pudding. All the antiques on display are for sale too, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself clutching a fringed Twenties lamp after one too many Hemingway Daiquiris. Victoria Line – South: Vauxhall Matt Writtle
This stunning wreck of a Georgian mansion, originally built for the Duke of Brunswick in 1758, was rescued by salvager Lassco. Now it’s home to one of south London’s best modern British restaurants. It’s run by Jackson Boxer and Andrew Clarke, who turn out phenomenal daily changing dishes such as roast Swaledale veal and chocolate cumin pudding. All the antiques on display are for sale too, so don’t be surprised if you find yourself clutching a fringed Twenties lamp after one too many Hemingway Daiquiris. 11/36 Pharmacy 2 Newport Street, SE11, pharmacyrestaurant.com Don’t worry if you weren’t there for the original debauchery of Damien Hirst and Mark Hix’s first restaurant, Pharmacy. Now there’s Pharmacy 2, attached to Hirst’s Newport Street gallery, which has just started hosting late-night sessions until 2am every Saturday. Contemplate the floating basket balls in the Jeff Koons Now exhibition until 10pm, then hit restaurant next door for Black Cow vodka cocktails, Hix’s posh curry sauce ’n’ chips and surprise DJ sets. Victoria Line – South: Vauxhall
Don’t worry if you weren’t there for the original debauchery of Damien Hirst and Mark Hix’s first restaurant, Pharmacy. Now there’s Pharmacy 2, attached to Hirst’s Newport Street gallery, which has just started hosting late-night sessions until 2am every Saturday. Contemplate the floating basket balls in the Jeff Koons Now exhibition until 10pm, then hit restaurant next door for Black Cow vodka cocktails, Hix’s posh curry sauce ’n’ chips and surprise DJ sets. 12/36 Royal Vauxhall Tavern 372 Kennington Lane, SE11, vauxhalltavern.com The RVT truly is a South London institution. The Grade II-listed Victorian music hall has been threatened with closure multiple times, but outrage and fabulous protests from its die-hard LGBT community has always saved it. A wonderfully welcoming atmosphere with spectacular cabaret and drag acts, live music, bingo and a hell of a lot of Britney and Madonna that has, as they put it, been “Serving confirmed bachelors and friends since long before Kylie was born”. Victoria Line – South: Vauxhall Google Maps
The RVT truly is a South London institution. The Grade II-listed Victorian music hall has been threatened with closure multiple times, but outrage and fabulous protests from its die-hard LGBT community has always saved it. A wonderfully welcoming atmosphere with spectacular cabaret and drag acts, live music, bingo and a hell of a lot of Britney and Madonna that has, as they put it, been “Serving confirmed bachelors and friends since long before Kylie was born”. 13/36 Crown and Anchor 246 Brixton Road, SW9, crownandanchorbrixton.co.uk Perfect for craft beer snobs whose mates refuse to visit another chilly, uncomfortable microbrewery in a car park or railway arch. This cosy pub has armchairs rather than barrels masquerading as seats, as well as a huge range of small-batch London brews — from Gipsy Hill to Northern Monk — and a weekly pub quiz. Victoria Line – South: Stockwell Google Maps
Perfect for craft beer snobs whose mates refuse to visit another chilly, uncomfortable microbrewery in a car park or railway arch. This cosy pub has armchairs rather than barrels masquerading as seats, as well as a huge range of small-batch London brews — from Gipsy Hill to Northern Monk — and a weekly pub quiz. 14/36 The Cavendish Arms 128 Hartington Road, SW8, thecavendisharmsstockwell.co.uk Locals know this place as the Cav and rock up to giggle/grimace at the weekly comedy open mic nights while tucking into giant gourmet hot dogs and its famous three-cheese disco fries. At the weekends, it’s open until 1.30am, when there’s also free live music from up to five acts in the ballroom — because what’s a pub without a ballroom? Victoria Line – South: Stockwell
Locals know this place as the Cav and rock up to giggle/grimace at the weekly comedy open mic nights while tucking into giant gourmet hot dogs and its famous three-cheese disco fries. At the weekends, it’s open until 1.30am, when there’s also free live music from up to five acts in the ballroom — because what’s a pub without a ballroom? 15/36 LOST Theatre 208 Wandsworth Road, SW8, losttheatre.co.uk This tiny theatre might only seat 180, but from small things come massive actors: in its previous Fulham incarnation, it counted Ralph Fiennes and Mackenzie Crook as alumni. Frequent art exhibitions from emerging talent are held in its event space, but the main draw is the bargainous ticket price for offbeat plays from up-and-coming thesps. Grab the last few tickets to drag-centric comedy Do You Have a Secret Crush, or hold out for meta-comedy A Night at 64 Emptiness Lane, which starts its run on September 1. Victoria Line – South: Stockwell James Thacker
This tiny theatre might only seat 180, but from small things come massive actors: in its previous Fulham incarnation, it counted Ralph Fiennes and Mackenzie Crook as alumni. Frequent art exhibitions from emerging talent are held in its event space, but the main draw is the bargainous ticket price for offbeat plays from up-and-coming thesps. Grab the last few tickets to drag-centric comedy Do You Have a Secret Crush, or hold out for meta-comedy A Night at 64 Emptiness Lane, which starts its run on September 1. 16/36 POP Brixton 49 Brixton Station Road, SW9 , popbrixton.org All day, late-night market built from shipping containers. Small businesses selling fashion and homewares are invited to pop up during the day, but in the evening it’s all about the brilliant street food traders, like Indian small plate restaurant Kricket and pizza maestros Made of Dough. Wash down your dinner with some surprising New World wines courtesy of NZ Wine Cellar. POP has just opened its outdoor space, POP Fields as well, where it’s running silent discos and movie screenings: Rocky and 500 Days of Summer are coming up in September. Victoria Line – South: Brixton
All day, late-night market built from shipping containers. Small businesses selling fashion and homewares are invited to pop up during the day, but in the evening it’s all about the brilliant street food traders, like Indian small plate restaurant Kricket and pizza maestros Made of Dough. Wash down your dinner with some surprising New World wines courtesy of NZ Wine Cellar. POP has just opened its outdoor space, POP Fields as well, where it’s running silent discos and movie screenings: Rocky and 500 Days of Summer are coming up in September. 17/36 Dogstar 389 Coldharbour Lane, SW9, dogstarbrixton.com Mostly held up by scaffolding and with smeary, curtain-swathed windows, Dogstar might look like the kind of place you’d normally cross the road to avoid. But this so-grotty-it’s-great stalwart of Atlantic Road has stood the test of time for many reasons: set over three floors, it’s huge, and plays hosts to all manner of themed nights. Drinks are super cheap, the on-site pizzas are surprisingly great and there are big TV screens — so good luck getting in if there’s any kind of sporting event occurring. Open till 4am on Friday and Saturday nights, so you practically don’t need the Night Tube anyway. Victoria Line – South: Brixton
Mostly held up by scaffolding and with smeary, curtain-swathed windows, Dogstar might look like the kind of place you’d normally cross the road to avoid. But this so-grotty-it’s-great stalwart of Atlantic Road has stood the test of time for many reasons: set over three floors, it’s huge, and plays hosts to all manner of themed nights. Drinks are super cheap, the on-site pizzas are surprisingly great and there are big TV screens — so good luck getting in if there’s any kind of sporting event occurring. Open till 4am on Friday and Saturday nights, so you practically don’t need the Night Tube anyway. 18/36 Ritzy Brixton Oval, SW2, picturehouses.com Sure, the Ritzy shows films, but it has so many other cool events on as well, such as weekly yoga, blues nights, and quizzes in its event space Upstairs at the Ritzy. There are also lots of Q&A sessions with actors and film directors, plus a café cum restaurant serving a healthy selection of booze. Just try not to fall asleep during a late movie. Victoria Line – South: Brixton Tim Kerr/Photocall Productions
Sure, the Ritzy shows films, but it has so many other cool events on as well, such as weekly yoga, blues nights, and quizzes in its event space Upstairs at the Ritzy. There are also lots of Q&A sessions with actors and film directors, plus a café cum restaurant serving a healthy selection of booze. Just try not to fall asleep during a late movie. 19/36 Satan's Whiskers 343 Cambridge Heath Road, E2, twitter.com Regularly nabbing one of the top spots in the World’s Best Bars list, Satan’s Whiskers is the kind of cocktail bar you want up your sleeve for when your coolest out-of-town friends come to stay. There’s taxidermy, neon, excellent old-skool hip hop and some seriously good drinks — although don’t expect to walk out unaided after more than two Tuxedo #2s: gin, vermouth, maraschino, bitters and absinthe. Ooft. Central Line – East: Bethnal Green
Regularly nabbing one of the top spots in the World’s Best Bars list, Satan’s Whiskers is the kind of cocktail bar you want up your sleeve for when your coolest out-of-town friends come to stay. There’s taxidermy, neon, excellent old-skool hip hop and some seriously good drinks — although don’t expect to walk out unaided after more than two Tuxedo #2s: gin, vermouth, maraschino, bitters and absinthe. Ooft. 20/36 The Horn of Plenty 36 Globe Road, E1, thehornofplentypub.co.uk Are you feeling lucky, punk? During the Horn’s happy hour, drinkers must play rock paper scissors with the bartender — you only get your half-price booze if you beat them. There’s a long, long list of Bloody Marys on offer and board games for when you’ve drunk six pints and have a hankering to relive your childhood days as a Boggle champion. Central Line – East: Bethnal Green
Are you feeling lucky, punk? During the Horn’s happy hour, drinkers must play rock paper scissors with the bartender — you only get your half-price booze if you beat them. There’s a long, long list of Bloody Marys on offer and board games for when you’ve drunk six pints and have a hankering to relive your childhood days as a Boggle champion. 21/36 The George Tavern 73 Commercial Road, E1, thegeorgetavern.co.uk Possibly the hippest pub in London, with regular performances by post-punk minimalist two-pieces and more funk and soul than you can shake a pint glass at. But it’s also got history — the George is on the site of a 700-year-old tavern mentioned in the writings of Charles Dickens, Samuel Pepys and Geoffrey Chaucer. Besides, you’d have to be made of stone to not enjoy the regular East End Variety Bunker nights, which promise “singalong tunes, party games, and general camp old nonsense”. Open until 3am at weekends. Central Line – East: Bethnal Green The George Tavern
Possibly the hippest pub in London, with regular performances by post-punk minimalist two-pieces and more funk and soul than you can shake a pint glass at. But it’s also got history — the George is on the site of a 700-year-old tavern mentioned in the writings of Charles Dickens, Samuel Pepys and Geoffrey Chaucer. Besides, you’d have to be made of stone to not enjoy the regular East End Variety Bunker nights, which promise “singalong tunes, party games, and general camp old nonsense”. Open until 3am at weekends. 22/36 Here East Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20, hereeast.com There’s nothing like an Olympic venue to make you want to stuff your face with chips and craft beer. Lucky, then, that the Here East development has just opened in the old Olympic Press and Broadcast Centre in Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. There’s lots of rentable offices and working spaces, but more importantly, there’s excellent grub on offer in this charming canalside spot. Randy’s Wings serve up some of London’s best chicken wings — good luck not becoming addicted to its Korean-inspired Gangnam wings, sticky and deeply umami-ish — while Mason and Company combines the excellent Five Points Brewery with Italian-American comfort food. Capiche? Central Line – East: Stratford
There’s nothing like an Olympic venue to make you want to stuff your face with chips and craft beer. Lucky, then, that the Here East development has just opened in the old Olympic Press and Broadcast Centre in Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. There’s lots of rentable offices and working spaces, but more importantly, there’s excellent grub on offer in this charming canalside spot. Randy’s Wings serve up some of London’s best chicken wings — good luck not becoming addicted to its Korean-inspired Gangnam wings, sticky and deeply umami-ish — while Mason and Company combines the excellent Five Points Brewery with Italian-American comfort food. Capiche? 23/36 Tap East 7 International Square, Westfield Stratford City, E20, tapeast.co.uk Westfield isn’t just clothes shopping and cinema you know — it’s also home to an excellent microbrewery. In the “Great Eastern Market” area of the shopping centre is Tap East, with a huge selection of beer: 100 bottles from around the world, plus 16 on tap from its on-site brewery, such as East End Mild and Johnny Park Bitter. Drink them by the third so you can sample as many as possible. If you’re a vinyl junkie, tweet the bar the albums you’re dying to hear, then rock up to the weekly vinyl night to find out if your Seventies mod-revival choice has made the cut. Central Line – East: Stratford Tap East Blog
Westfield isn’t just clothes shopping and cinema you know — it’s also home to an excellent microbrewery. In the “Great Eastern Market” area of the shopping centre is Tap East, with a huge selection of beer: 100 bottles from around the world, plus 16 on tap from its on-site brewery, such as East End Mild and Johnny Park Bitter. Drink them by the third so you can sample as many as possible. If you’re a vinyl junkie, tweet the bar the albums you’re dying to hear, then rock up to the weekly vinyl night to find out if your Seventies mod-revival choice has made the cut. 24/36 Flamingo Pier CRATE Brewery, 7, The White Building, Queen’s Yard, E9, flamingopier.net What makes a pop-up, booze-soaked party even better? Palm trees and flamingos, obviously. DJ Luke Walker teams up with the excellent CRATE brewery — home to craft beer, pizza, and a lot of vibes — each month to throw mega parties, with a ridiculous amount of booze and choons. They’ve recently moved homes to Mick’s Garage, which means you can refuel after dancing your socks off with Middle Eastern mezze from Berber and Q’s Shuk Shuk alongside all the CRATE beer. Central Line – East: Stratford Ravi Chand
What makes a pop-up, booze-soaked party even better? Palm trees and flamingos, obviously. DJ Luke Walker teams up with the excellent CRATE brewery — home to craft beer, pizza, and a lot of vibes — each month to throw mega parties, with a ridiculous amount of booze and choons. They’ve recently moved homes to Mick’s Garage, which means you can refuel after dancing your socks off with Middle Eastern mezze from Berber and Q’s Shuk Shuk alongside all the CRATE beer. 25/36 Leyton Technical 265 High Road, E10, leytontechnical.com No, you haven’t accidentally wandered into a stately home, despite the soaring ceilings, mosaic floors and chandeliers. Because which National Trust joint have you ever known with seven Cask Marque ales on tap, live DJs playing every weekend until 1am and a weekly comedy night called Are You Having a Giraffe? Its vegetarian Wellington on Sundays is an oozy, crispy slab of cheesy goodness. Dogs are allowed. Central Line – East: Leyton
No, you haven’t accidentally wandered into a stately home, despite the soaring ceilings, mosaic floors and chandeliers. Because which National Trust joint have you ever known with seven Cask Marque ales on tap, live DJs playing every weekend until 1am and a weekly comedy night called Are You Having a Giraffe? Its vegetarian Wellington on Sundays is an oozy, crispy slab of cheesy goodness. Dogs are allowed. 26/36 Luna Lounge 7 Church Lane, E11, lunalounge.info Live music buffs will have already made it out to this haven of all things jazz, acid, funk and well, any other variety of music you care to name. Like an actual monthly Western night — stetsons at the ready. Not only is it open until 1am, it’s also within spitting distance of the Tube for when you tear yourself away from the choons. Central Line – East: Leyton Andy Field
Live music buffs will have already made it out to this haven of all things jazz, acid, funk and well, any other variety of music you care to name. Like an actual monthly Western night — stetsons at the ready. Not only is it open until 1am, it’s also within spitting distance of the Tube for when you tear yourself away from the choons. 27/36 The Leyton Star 116 High Road, E15, leytonstar.co.uk The Star opened its doors just a month ago, but it has already become a staple in the craft beer drinker’s diet. Make the most of the dying days of summer in the beer garden (there’s a massive golden palm tree!). Plus the quite excellent We Serve Humans are doing the food: that means mental burgers like Mac the Ripper (deep–fried mac ’n’ cheese) and jockey whips: chips fried in beef dripping, topped with truffle. Drool. Central Line – East: Leyton The Leyton Star
The Star opened its doors just a month ago, but it has already become a staple in the craft beer drinker’s diet. Make the most of the dying days of summer in the beer garden (there’s a massive golden palm tree!). Plus the quite excellent We Serve Humans are doing the food: that means mental burgers like Mac the Ripper (deep–fried mac ’n’ cheese) and jockey whips: chips fried in beef dripping, topped with truffle. Drool. 28/36 Bush Theatre 7 Uxbridge Road, W12, bushtheatre.co.uk A real incubator for new and emerging talent, this titchy theatre by Shepherd’s Bush market has a reputation for being the first to show plays which go on to open in the West End and on Broadway. The Old Library, its home since 2011, is being refurbished to turn it into a modern space with more rehearsal rooms for amateur thesps and a technical workshop for budding production staff. Fingers crossed it’ll still serve the same amazing coffee and cakes. Central Line – West: Shepherd’s Bush Bush Theatre
A real incubator for new and emerging talent, this titchy theatre by Shepherd’s Bush market has a reputation for being the first to show plays which go on to open in the West End and on Broadway. The Old Library, its home since 2011, is being refurbished to turn it into a modern space with more rehearsal rooms for amateur thesps and a technical workshop for budding production staff. Fingers crossed it’ll still serve the same amazing coffee and cakes. 29/36 Shikumen Dorsett Hotel, 58 Shepherd’s Bush Green, W12, shikumen.co.uk When made well, xiao long bao, the Chinese soup-filled dumplings, are some of the most delicious morsels on earth. And the examples at this unpromising-looking restaurant just off Shepherd’s Bush Green are superb. They’ve won over critics from Fay Maschler to Giles Coren thanks to their super-delicate skins and umami-ish broth. The restaurant has just launched a rainbow collection of multi-coloured dumplings, including beetroot-coloured Szechuan spicy pork and incredibly decadent black charcoal-dyed lobster truffle. Central Line – West: Shepherd’s Bush Hugh Flouch/Red Wheelbarrow
When made well, xiao long bao, the Chinese soup-filled dumplings, are some of the most delicious morsels on earth. And the examples at this unpromising-looking restaurant just off Shepherd’s Bush Green are superb. They’ve won over critics from Fay Maschler to Giles Coren thanks to their super-delicate skins and umami-ish broth. The restaurant has just launched a rainbow collection of multi-coloured dumplings, including beetroot-coloured Szechuan spicy pork and incredibly decadent black charcoal-dyed lobster truffle. 30/36 Brewdog 15 Goldhawk Road, W12, brewdog.com London’s not short of brilliant craft beer but it was BrewDog which really kicked off our obsession with punchy, hoppy IPAs. Although the pub chain has its detractors, the beer is still excellent, and the Goldhawk Road bar gives you the opportunity to try a dangerous amount. There are 40 different types on tap, from the bar’s classic Punk IPA through to the innocent-sounding but deadly Hello, My Name Is Ingrid, which clocks in 8.2%. There’s a healthy selection of guest beers and some stonking nachos to soak up all that hoppy goodness. Central Line – West: Shepherd’s Bush
London’s not short of brilliant craft beer but it was BrewDog which really kicked off our obsession with punchy, hoppy IPAs. Although the pub chain has its detractors, the beer is still excellent, and the Goldhawk Road bar gives you the opportunity to try a dangerous amount. There are 40 different types on tap, from the bar’s classic Punk IPA through to the innocent-sounding but deadly Hello, My Name Is Ingrid, which clocks in 8.2%. There’s a healthy selection of guest beers and some stonking nachos to soak up all that hoppy goodness. 31/36 Pergola on the Roof Multi-Storey Car Park, Television Centre, Wood Lane, W12, pergolaontheroof.co.uk London loves a good rooftop party. In W12, everyone’s getting high at the old BBC Television Centre, which has been taken over by a huge array of benches, boules pitches and leaves. There’s also some cracking food from burger legends Patty & Bun and tapas from Salt Yard, plus bathtubs of rose and beer. But get your skates on — you’ve only got until August 29 to get up there and eat yourself silly. Central Line – West: White City
London loves a good rooftop party. In W12, everyone’s getting high at the old BBC Television Centre, which has been taken over by a huge array of benches, boules pitches and leaves. There’s also some cracking food from burger legends Patty & Bun and tapas from Salt Yard, plus bathtubs of rose and beer. But get your skates on — you’ve only got until August 29 to get up there and eat yourself silly. 32/36 Albertine 1 Wood Lane, W12, albertinewinebar.co.uk Wine, wine and more wine at this 40-year-old drinking hole. Opened specifically to serve the needs of thirsty BBC employees, particularly those on Newsnight, the quaint bar’s extremely reasonably priced wine selection has kept the place busy despite the Beeb’s exodus from the area. The farinata and sticky aromatic pork belly are delicious but really, you’re here for the plonk. Most are available to take away, although you’ll never recreate this convivial atmosphere at home. Central Line – West: White City
Wine, wine and more wine at this 40-year-old drinking hole. Opened specifically to serve the needs of thirsty BBC employees, particularly those on Newsnight, the quaint bar’s extremely reasonably priced wine selection has kept the place busy despite the Beeb’s exodus from the area. The farinata and sticky aromatic pork belly are delicious but really, you’re here for the plonk. Most are available to take away, although you’ll never recreate this convivial atmosphere at home. 33/36 Bush Hall 310 Uxbridge Road, W12, bushhallmusic.co.uk ince 1904, this huge Edwardian space has been a dance hall, Second World War soup kitchen, bingo hall and rehearsal space for such as The Who, Cliff Richard and Adam Faith. Now it’s primarily a music venue (Ellie Goulding, Adele and Kings of Leon have all played here), although it also serves as a rather lovely event space. And you know that bloke you met in Brixton earlier in this feature? Reader, you can marry him here. Central Line – West: White City
ince 1904, this huge Edwardian space has been a dance hall, Second World War soup kitchen, bingo hall and rehearsal space for such as The Who, Cliff Richard and Adam Faith. Now it’s primarily a music venue (Ellie Goulding, Adele and Kings of Leon have all played here), although it also serves as a rather lovely event space. And you know that bloke you met in Brixton earlier in this feature? Reader, you can marry him here. 34/36 Vindinista 74 Churchfield Road, W3, vindinista.com Sister to East Acton’s best wine shop, Park + Bridge, this tiny bar serves really interesting wines, including English white and skin-contact. Locals throng in for the regularly changing stock, sniffing and swilling small production grape juice as if they know exactly what they’re talking about. Even if your wine knowledge ends at “light and fruity”, you can focus on the short, high-quality food menu: empanadas sit alongside charcuterie boards and the rather fabulous Vindinista cheese and truffle toastie. Central Line – West: East Acton
Sister to East Acton’s best wine shop, Park + Bridge, this tiny bar serves really interesting wines, including English white and skin-contact. Locals throng in for the regularly changing stock, sniffing and swilling small production grape juice as if they know exactly what they’re talking about. Even if your wine knowledge ends at “light and fruity”, you can focus on the short, high-quality food menu: empanadas sit alongside charcuterie boards and the rather fabulous Vindinista cheese and truffle toastie. 35/36 The Aeronaut 264 Acton High Street, W3, aeronaut.pub f you like trapeze with your Trappist beer and somersaults with your cider — and frankly, who doesn’t? — you need to try the Aeronaut. Established in honour of Acton-born aviation pioneer George Lee Temple, the first man to fly a plane upside down, the sort of acrobatics on show are less plane-based and more plain impressive: expect contortionists bending themselves into knots and fire breathers — who said you couldn’t smoke inside pubs any more? Central Line – West: East Acton
f you like trapeze with your Trappist beer and somersaults with your cider — and frankly, who doesn’t? — you need to try the Aeronaut. Established in honour of Acton-born aviation pioneer George Lee Temple, the first man to fly a plane upside down, the sort of acrobatics on show are less plane-based and more plain impressive: expect contortionists bending themselves into knots and fire breathers — who said you couldn’t smoke inside pubs any more? 36/36 Dragonfly Brewery 183 Acton High Street, W3, twitter.com Watch your beer being brewed right in front of your thirsty eyes at the George — the stills that make its Dragonfly range are beside the giant mermaid figurehead on a plinth that casually sits on the bar. 2 O’Clock Ordinary is exactly the light bitter you need to kick off a session; follow it with one of the mammoth burgers and an unfiltered Early Doors pale ale. The best news? All the in-house brewed beer is £3.50, which makes it among the cheapest in London. Central Line – West: East Acton
Working in the City, confirms financial commentator David Buik, has become “professionally competitive. Brexit means about 30,000 jobs are likely to be shed in the City of London by banks and brokers. Your bank requires double the capital to do the same business that it did eight years ago and new regulatory requirements are resulting in the number of employees being severely cut back — it’s much more ‘dog eat dog’. A clear head at lunchtime these days is a prerequisite.”
Indeed, the drunken City culture — and its rewards of Vegas breaks, weekend ski chalets, hookers and even drugs from brokers — was blamed for creating the conditions that meant Libor rate-fixing was possible. Every embarrassing financial scandal has ripped another row of bar seats away from bankers’ boozy intentions.
But some will still cheerlead for the wine glass’s role in lubricating good relations — and good deals. City champion Justin Urquhart Stewart of Seven Investment Management laments the fact that “the demand for clarity seems to have changed over the past few decades. In the Eighties it was for decent claret, [either] from El Vino in Fleet Street or the City Club in Old Broad Street. Now — sadly — it is the demand for clarity of thinking — and therefore alcohol-free thinking.”
(Shutterstock / kai keisuke)
Urquhart Stewart acknowledges “the need for precision in the use of our exacting electronic equipment — computers mean that shaking fingers are an obvious danger for businesses”. But he warns firms that “many successful and profitable deals and transactions are still based on personal contact and relationships. Firms may find themselves losing out on some key opportunities. Socialising is still a vital element of business and claret (other wines are also acceptable) can be to a successful trade relationship as important a lubricant as Castrol is to your throaty Aston Martin… To ban is blind discipline, to manage it is far more creative.”
And, given that the slickers of the Square Mile have never been known for being the most honest suits in the capital, it’s not surprising that some eulogising the liquid lunch reckon its demise could actually be to the detriment of the markets.
Nick Batsford, a trader for three decades who goes by the nickname “Moose” (no one can remember why) and who now runs financial trading broadcaster TipTv, points out gossip — almost inevitably booze-fuelled — has always been the way the best information is passed on. “Some old City folk could wink down telephone lines, some could drink a gallon at lunchtime. My clients preferred the latter,” he says.
So might the sober office be making people, and therefore the markets, stupider? Batsford thinks it might: “We have lost the camaraderie, the unwind before going home and the opportunity to discuss markets and get a feel for other people’s views.”
Let’s not go too far, though. The long boozy lunch might be a lesser-spotted phenomenon but a stroll around Fenchurch Street’s boozers on a Friday shows it’s still happening. “The higher you go in the business, the more drunken it is, even in the daytime,” says one corporate lobbyist. “It’s a surprise if one of the partners at my firm doesn’t return very well lubricated, very late in the afternoon, say 5pm, on a Friday after meeting clients or prospects.”
Deals still need greasing — you can’t, much of the City still maintains, woo a reluctant client over an email or, as Lloyd’s employees are grumbling, “a smoothie and sandwich”.
It’s increasingly a generational divide — the young guns of Gen X and Y are more likely to be teetotal than their beer-bellied older deskmates. So with or without Lloyd’s-style edicts, expect the City’s boozing culture to continue to fade out as pubs are passed over for paninis.
Meanwhile, that corporate PR man is still going strong. He is widely regarded as a source of smart advice before lunch, jocular company until three, and best avoided after that.
Whatever HR says, the message from the boss is pretty much the same as it has always been: “If you make me money, I don’t care how much you had to guzzle to do so.”
The new rules of the City
It’s not just the demise of lunchtime boozing that is changing the culture of the City of London — no capital-dwelling Gordon Gekko could have predicted bankers queuing at cold-pressed juiceries or taking turns in a nap pod at the office. So what’s in and what’s out?
OUT: claret at lunch. IN: green juice and coconut water after a lunchtime anti-gravity yoga session in Broadgate.
OUT: the executive car service. IN: the Tube. At the start of the financial crash a Goldman Sachs memo warned it would only pay for taxis home after 10pm, while Deutsche Bank warned its bankers: “Tubes should be the norm for travelling across London, taxis taken during a transport strike will only be repaid if permission is granted from a banker’s line manager, employees must travel second class on trains unless journeys take more than two hours.” Ubers get through but mostly the old ways haven’t returned.
OUT: excess. Those mile-long receipts — as when Barclays Capital dealers spent £44,000 on wine during a meal at Gordon Ramsay’s Pétrus (the restaurant threw in the food for free) at the start of the Noughties are over. As is that fun hobby of spraying bars with vintage champagne à la Lewis Hamilton. IN: a Pret at your desk. But hey, the pay is still decent enough to make up for it.
OUT: unquestioned expense claims, creatively filed by your secretary. IN: app-controlled expense software, itemised and signed-off by someone humourless in HR who knows that strange-sounding restaurant doesn’t serve food.
OUT: unlimited luxury travel. Business class upgrades are now only for very long or overnight trips. IN: outfit changes in the terminal loo — City slickers who used to slap down a company credit card for a pricey early-morning hotel check-in are now told to “shower and shave at the airport” and get straight to work.
Follow Lucy Tobin on Twitter: @lucytobin; Follow Simon English on Twitter: @SimonEngStand